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PreWar Workshop: Piston stuck in the block

This old Herschell-Spillman V8 engine (1916) has been in a shed for almost 50 years. It has cast iron blocks and pistons and the engine has fixed tops. Some years ago the engine was left to a car restorer for renovation. Two pistons were stuck but one was relatively easy taken out. Then the renovation stopped as the second one withstood every attempt with all kinds of rust removal and brut force. After some years I decided to try myself or let someone else do the job, this time with acid or lye. A friend of mine (a very experienced restorer) offered to try too loosening the piston first. He machined a bar to fit the big end of the piston rod and bolts were welded to the bar. Those were used to put pressure and help pull out the piston. The block (and piston) was then repeatedly heated with a hot air pistol several times to make it widen and shrink. This did not help, the piston was still stuck. All holes in the cylinder were plugged except the spark plug hole. Lye (sodium hydroxide) was then poured into the cylinder thru the spark plug hole and the minus cable of a battery charger was connected to the piston rod. A piece of iron was mounted in a plastic plug so this metal part would not shortcut. The plug was screwed into the spark plug hole and the iron connected to the plus cable. The iron bar was now in the space above the piston filled with lye. This finally did the trick! After about three days the piston started moving down. It could now be completely drawn out of the cylinder by using the welded bolts. The block was then lowered into a bath of lay and again connected to the battery charger. After a couple of days all rust and old sticky oil was gone. The cylinders have been inspected and to our surprise all four of them are in very good condition! The cylinders in the other block have been honed (machine grinded) and are fine. Next step is to hone the cylinders in this block. Hopefully they are as good as they look.

Text and photos by Gunnar Geijer      

Publiziert:
Dienstag Juli 18th, 2017
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27 Juli 2017, 19:52
Here in Holland we call it caustic soda
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21 Juli 2017, 13:42
Kevin and Leon; We used a product which you can buy in any supermarket. It's made for clearing drains in kitchen and bathroom, don't know the English word for it.
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20 Juli 2017, 23:48
Actually now I've realised what Lye is I'm 100% with Leon- I use washing soda which is perfectly harmless to both aluminium and my hands. Don't use anything caustic, it really isn't worth it
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20 Juli 2017, 06:53
Robb; the first guy who tried to loosen the piston used (among other ways) two hydraulic jacks, but it didn't work.
Leon; yes, you have to be careful with this stuff. Maybe it wasn't just rust but mainly sticky oil that had been there since around 1930 that made the piston stuck. As you said, sodium hydroxide works great on oil as well. We wouldn't have used this method if the piston wasn't cast iron!
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20 Juli 2017, 04:16
"Lye" the common name for potassium hydroxide. Sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) is pretty dangerous stuff, and I'm surprised to hear of it being used for electrolysis of rust. It will damage both you, and your car parts, particularly in higher concentrations. It dissolves aluminium rapidly, and will damage some steel/iron alloys with prolonged contact. Be careful with it. A spoonful of "washing soda" (sodium carbonate) to a 9-litre bucket of water does a good job for electrolysis. The solution is safe, non-corrosive, and you can get the washing soda in the laundry aisle of the supermarket for a few bob. It works well for electrolysis of rust with a steel (or, better, iron) electrode. Baking soda (sodium bi-carbonate) also works. Save sodium hyroxide for jobs where it's needed - like cleaning out oily carbon deposits from two-stroke exhaust systems.
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19 Juli 2017, 21:48
I did the same thing recently on an MG 18/80 block. I did the pistons from above with an electrode in each of the stuck cylinders then rolled it over and did exactly the same from below. It worked beautifully on a block that had defied all other attempts.
I have a couple of different shape drums set up to derust all my parts. It saves so much work when you can just put the parts in there and walk away
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19 Juli 2017, 15:00
Gunnar, Thanks for sharing this technique. I had a similarly stuck piston and after several years of adding penetrating oil and heat, I resorted to using two hydraulic jacks. You can see this here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/30204660@N06/3325479917/in/album-72157614755305058/
I wish I had known about your lye trick!
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19 Juli 2017, 12:53
I have heard of this electrical process in the past for de-rusting parts, but a stuck piston is a new one. Excellent. Thanks for sharing.
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19 Juli 2017, 08:51
An excellent solution combining Chemistry and electrolysis.
I too would like to know the concentration of the NaOH solution, in both the cylinder and and the cleaning bath.
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19 Juli 2017, 07:55
So good to see problems solved. I usually use a adaptor for the spark plug hole with a grese nipple and then I start with oil and apply pressure with the grease gun. This also works with stuck brake pistons.

Kind regards from Tyrol, Thomas
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19 Juli 2017, 07:34
The solution was around 10 %, booth for the piston and the soaking of the block. The battery charger is connected to the object in the water and sodium oxide is then poured into the water until the charger shows 3-4 ampere. Stronger solution will blow the fuse. Thanks for the praise, I'll pass it on to the guy who did this!
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19 Juli 2017, 06:24
Now that is really clever! What made you think it would work?
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19 Juli 2017, 02:55
That is extremely clever. I have a similarly stuck piston in a c.1908 block - I don't need it but I may try this just to see it work.
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19 Juli 2017, 00:48
Sounds like a great way of resolving the problem.
What was the % solution of Sodium Hydroxide used, in both the extraction of the piston, and the soaking of the block ?
I hope that there was NO stretching of the con-rod ?
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