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1909 Regal backfiring Issue.

Recently Thomas and Joyce Edfors had to hop over to a steaming Stanley after their 1909 Regal Tourer started producing hick-ups. It is one of those nasty little problems one can run into when touring an old car. We give the word to Thomas: "The problem with the car mystifies me and many others on our tours. It starts when we are either doing a steep grade, a long uphill but slight slope and/or a long straight road on a warm day (at about 30-35 MPH). Everything is fine but suddenly it makes a 'gurgling' sound, backfires (actually a series of backfires), power is lost and finally it typically blows water out of the radiator but always shuts down. If one waits for a few moments, or takes the time to add a little water, it starts up again and we can drive away. What is also strange is that after this first episode it may not do it again for the rest of the tour or, it will do it again in the next few minutes, five minutes or an hour later but sometime down the road it starts doing it again it will do so over and over. I have only one thought so far about this. There is a heat tube that fits to the exhaust pipe and connects to the air intake on the carburetor. While this heated intake air may have been needed when the car was new, due to poor gasoline at that time, I fear it is now boiling the gas in the carburetor when it is under such a load and causing vapor lock and fuel starvation. Having a thermo-syphon cooling system, this would appear to also cause the engine to overheat to the point that the some of the water turns to steam and it blows water out of the radiator overflow. I think I should remove this heat tube. Also, there is an in-line fuel filter which also could be helping starve the carburetor when gas is needed under load. This is a gravity feed system, as was typical in 1909. This may also need to be removed. "

We are eager to hear from you. Can you give Thomas some advise? 

Publiziert:
Montag Mai 23rd, 2011
Unbekannt
06 Juni 2011, 01:54
Help! Also been reading the artcle on the Regal. I have a 1910 Regal Detroit model 30. Does anyone have a diagram of the engine lubrication system?
Its been 40 years since it has ran so I pulled the oil pan for cleaning. It seems someone had previously worked on the bottom end. There is a tube that is pressurized by the oil pump.It is indexed into position by a set screw. The tube has four small holes for spraying oil on rods.
Question: The holes are facing the side of the oil pan; it seems they should be facing each of the rods. But the tube appears to have only one position (index set screw).
Any help, diagrams or contact info of others who may have Regals will be appreciated.
Many thanks,
JC
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25 Mai 2011, 20:46
Dear Thomas: If the exhaust heat exchanger tube is perforated the combustion temperature will be lower. It cannot burn what is already burned. EGR basic principle. The exhaust heat exchanger is very useful when starting (specially if you add heptane to a modified high compression engine) and in cold weather. Please remember heat tranfers upward. Vapor lock or overheating of the fuel to the carb occurs only when stopped, not running, otherwise a wrong location of lines. Always use a fuel filter, bigger if you have doubts. And check your electrical wiring. They do move or change position when the vehicle is at an angle and may ground. After water pressure test no leak? Then the spill is due when engine turns off stopping water circulation. Good luck!
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25 Mai 2011, 06:32
Colin

The threaded hole in question is for a fitting and 1/4" pipe which feeds oil to the top of the magneto housing. This oil flows down lubricating the magneto drive bevel gears. The oil then flows down into the crankcase via the timing gears.
However, not all lycoming motors of the period were fitted with a magneto but instead with a distruibtor. In the this case the oil line was feed into the timing gear cover just above where the timimg gears are. This oil line is important in both cases as it provides lubrication to the front end of the motor.
Thanks
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24 Mai 2011, 21:12
Colin, Please contact me re your missing part may be able to help Regards
David
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24 Mai 2011, 19:09
Hi Thomas. If the exhaust heat exchanger tube is perforated or poorly fitted it will allow very hot burnt gasses back into the system therefore running even hotter and weaker than normal.If you need an inline fuel filter get a clear glass or plastic one that you can see if there is crud in it ! Good luck and I hope you cure it .
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24 Mai 2011, 18:06
Just been reading the article on the Regal. I have a 1911 Regal Underslung Model N with a Lycoming engine which I bought in semi stripped down condition I wonder if anybody could help me.
I have a part missing which is located at the rear left hand side of the engine below the oil pump drive it is a threaded hole to which the oil is pumped up to from the sump anybody any idea's or drawings or pic's as I will have to make one if I can get dimensions
Many Thanks
Colin
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24 Mai 2011, 16:28
This problem is almost certainly caused by the fuel vapourising before it enters the choke chamber. Taking a couple of turns in the fuel line may help as would adding a gallon or so of paraffin to every five of petrol.
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24 Mai 2011, 14:57
Yes, you are on the right track. I've had this happen and with a Zenith carburetor, where I can pot the top of quickly, I've observed the fuel boiling vigorously in the bowl. This starves the engine of fuel, but before the situation gets bad enough to die, the engine is running too lean, causing it to overheat. I think that the other suggestions mentioned below are sound.
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24 Mai 2011, 09:11
As a fellow Regal owner I often wonder what is the dumbest part of the design. 1Putting the magneto under the hot exhaust manifold or 2. Putting the magneto ie a spark making machine next to the carb full of petrol!!
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24 Mai 2011, 07:53
Clean out the radiator yourself with some washing Soda and hot water, flush out so long untill there comes clear water out of it. After that connect a small rubber tube to the overflow pipe into a bottle of somekind and hang the bottle somewhere out of sight in the engine-bay. When the engine starts to boil at least you don't spill any coolingfluid on the steet. After parking the car the cooled down radiator wll suck-out the fluids from the bottle so amount of fluids stays the same. Change the sparkplugs to another degree and brand sometimes that makes all the difference Investigating and finding solutions for such problems brings the car you love even closer to the heart :-)
Good luck!
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24 Mai 2011, 06:46
Dear Thomas, Yes most likely you are dealing with vapor lock or overheating of the fuel to the carb. Don't start tearing things apart but try to get the fuel line away from any heat source, IE exhaust under the car, heat under the hood etc. Fuel lines can be moved away from heat sources, wrapped to prevent this problem and if you have a pre-heat situation with the carb look at that also. I would also look carefully at the radiator condition inside and out. Many people paint the core and it will not disapate the heat correctly. Looks nice until its steaming. Seems to me you have a few inter-realated aspects going on but nothing that good looking and re-routing won't cure. Good luck, I'm in Arizona, I know heat.
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24 Mai 2011, 03:16
Leave the heat tube on the shelf. Fit a new fuel line one size larger than the current one taking care to ease out any brass fittings with a drill to aid flow. Discard in-line filter and if there is any doubt about fuel tank remove, clean out, and treat with fuel tank sealant. Finally, cut your petrol back about 10% with diesel. Modern petrol burns too quick and too hot, you need to slow it down a little. I've done this with my very old cars for many years and never had a moments bother.
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